I have been to many auto auctions in different states for more than a decade. In the Auto Auction blogs I will tell you all you need to know on how to save money, what to look for, and how auto auctions work.
Thursday, March 1, 2012
Auto Auctions { Part 2, Do your homework }
If you're wanting to buy a car to drive, or to sale for profit, do your homework. There are many different types of sales at auto auctions.
Auto Auctions { Part 3, How to find the best Auction for your needs }
Most Auto Auctions only sale to the public on certain days or certain times of the month. Some auctions have large inventories of certain manufacturers automobiles. Most Auctions carry a good selection of many makes and models. If you know what make and model you want, check for auctions in your area [ask when they are open to the public]. Many auctions will have web sites which list most of the automobiles for auction on that sale date. Find the best auction for your needs. Now is the time to setup payment plan with auction [most acccept cash, check, money order, cashiers check or bank draft]. Be sure you secure payment method before going to auction. Let the auction know what price range you are willing to spend and they can tell you what the buyers cost will be [buyers cost is what the auction makes from you for their services]. If you are not sure of price, ask them to email you a complete list that breaks down buyers cost based on your bid price. I'm sure they will be happy to .
Auto Auctions { Part 4, After you've located the auction that works for you take the next steps }
Now is the time you should purchase an Automobile Appraisal booklet. There are many selections; some for older models and some for newer to current models. Be sure to select the proper guide. These guides will help you save $THOUSANDS$ if used properly. Find the make, model, and year vehicle you're are looking for. Newer models have add-on and deducts and mileage add-on or deducts, be sure you figure these in the total .
Auto Auctions { Part 5, Best time to go to auctions and why }
The best time to go to auto auctions is daytime , clear weather if possible. Be sure to arrive at least two hours before the sale begins. Walk the lot and find as many vehicles you like as you can. Most auctions have a test track you can drive the vehicles on, if not many will let you drive it on the highway. Be sure you check the vehicle out before it enters the building. The reason a daytime clear day is best is because you can see the paint better, vehicles should not smoke after being warmed up, [ on cool nights with moisture in the air vehicles will smoke longer, some dealers or consumers will bring vehicles that smoke, at nights for that reason ]. It's also easier to see oil or water leaks under a car at daytime in clear weather, [ some dealers or consumers will bring vehicles that leak, on rainy days or nights for that reason].
Auto Auctions { Part 6, How to check out the vehicle before purchase }
Be sure you have your used car guide . paper and pen with you. When you locate a vehicle you like your ready to check it out. First walk around it check the paint make sure all fenders, doors,hood , trunk and roof match also check for dents and scratches, open doors, hood, and trunk, check joints close make sure they Aline proper, you should be able to tell if vehicle has been painted over anywhere.[ if it has be sure to make a note]. Look at all tires [ check for wear, if all are same make] if wore bad and or different make be sure you make a note. Now look under vehicle [ check exhaust system for rust , under entire bottom for rust, check for oil or water leaks] oi any make a note. Now it's time to crank the vehicle and let it warm up, while it is warming up check out the following ,[all electrical, power windows, power door locks, power seats, in other words all power settings, power sun,moon roof, if convertible power up and down, radio , cassette, cd player, dvd player, good to have a cassette, cd, and dvd with you to test properly, check sound at all speakers, check navigation system if available, check all interior lights , check blinkers, horn, check for any lights saying repairs are needed , overhead lining, interior, seats , doors, console, dash, glove box , all mirrors, carpet, all rubber around doors,etc.
Auto Auctions { Part 7, checking out vehicle before purchase }
Turn off the radio, cd player, dvd player. Now turn on the a/c, [air conditioner] check for coolness [if cool weather, make sure a/c clutch on a/c compressor is turning; if too cool inside to tell if a/c is cool, check all settings on fan; be sure they blow at each setting. Now vehicle should be warmed up, leave engine running and with vehicle in park, emergency brake on, turn on headlights and step outside; check headlights on bright and dim; check blinkers, brake lights, and all other exterior lights. Look in trunk to make sure it is in good shape; check spare tire. Check again for oil and water leaks [water may leak from a/c dryer which is normal].
Check exhaust for smoke [light grey smoke with moisture mixed in could be a cracked block; dark grey smoke with a burned oil smell could mean engine is burning oil -- either one of these is very costly, so beware]. Open hood, listen for a knocking sound and look for oil leaks on engine, check all hoses and belts [make sure they don't need replaced]. Check battery and battery post. Batteries have dates on them so check the age [the average battery last 3 to 4 years under normal usage]. Listen for pulley noise, listen for clutch noise on a/c; a proper running runs smooth with very little engine noise. MAKE NOTES IF ANY PROBLEMS WERE FOUND IN PART 6 or 7. NEXT IN PART 8, WHAT TO CHECK WHEN DRIVING VEHICLE [CHECK MY BLOG ON HOW TO DETERMINE WATER DAMAGE]
Auto auctions { Part 8, test driving the vehicle }
First thing to check are the brakes [ drive slow with window down apply brakes hard, listen for metal sound touching disk do this more than once, make sure vehicle does not pull to the right or left when applying brakes] . If brakes check out and brake pedal stays high after applying, it should be safe to test vehicle further [ if not safe test no further ] make note for future use. Next speed up just a little bit and turn steering wheel from right to left quickly [ make sure steering wheel does not have to much play in it, listen for noises in front end ] . Now drive straight, listen for strange sounds, make sure still goes straight when you release hands from steering wheel [ let go of wheel just for a second or two] make sure vehicle rides smooth [ no vibrations]. If your test drive vehicle is an automatic be sure you get up enough speed for transmission to shift through all gears smoothly, make sure reverse, 1, 2, 3, and overdrive [some vehicles have manual overdrive] work properly. If you are testing a four wheel drive put the vehicle in four wheel and test[ a good way is to get in gravel stop then push gas down a little stop get out you should have gravel slung in all four tire places if working proper] check in high and low range drives and pulls proper. Make sure odometer is working proper while you are driving [this is very important , the odometer has a lot do do in determining the selling price]. Continue in part 4 .
Auto Auctions { Part 9, test driving the vehicle }
While test driving check all gauges and look for mechanical warning lights . Gauges than show full read outs should be as follows: oil pressure should read 40 to 50 pounds of pressure on average,water coolent gauge should be around 200 degree's when engine is fully warmed up, battery gauge should read 14 amps or more. If everything checks out your ready to park vehicle, leave engine running, after parked get out, check for leaks ,check for smoke from exhaust, raise hood listen to engine[ make sure it is running smooth,no smoke from engine, no burnt oil smell, no engine leaks]. Now you can turn engine off. Check your notes, if all checked out ok you are ready for my next blog, if not, go to my blog about cost for repairs .
Auto Auctions { Part 10, How to know when vehicle will be run through sale }
On all vehicles at a auto auction you will notice writing on the windshields, this writing will tell you the following: lane vehicle will be auctioned in, what number it will be run through in that lane, mileage on the odometer,[ if it Say's[ exempt] read my blog about titles] if dealer is selling vehicle it will normally list the dealer name. Sometimes they will list[ salvage] if so read my blog about salvage vehicles.
Auto Auctions { Part 11, Tips to figure what you want to pay for vehicle }
It is important to know how much you are willing to bid before vehicle hit's the block [is being auctioned].
Auto Auctions { Part 12, How to bid and save money at the same time }
Remember these things, they are very important and will save you money if you follow closely. When your vehicle hits the block[ in front of auctioneer and ready to sale] you should have already checked out vehicle and know the price you are willing. You should stand where you can see the auctioneer at all times , listen closely to what he says about the vehicle also look at lights he will light.If title is there auctioneer will say title to go, If he says, comes with ride, a green light will light ,it gives a person 1 hour after purchase to check out vehicle if they have not yet, if they find something major wrong they can arbitrate [ someone from auction will check out complaint if it is true the bidder does not have to purchase vehicle, if he finds complaint to be wrong the bidder has to purchase vehicle. [that is the reason you should check out vehicle before sale begins] . If the auctioneer says title attached a blue light should come on [ means title is not there, the auction has 30 days to receive title and mail it to you, you must still pay for vehicle then, but auction will not deposit check until they receive title, if auction has not received title in 30 days from sale date your can return vehicle at no charge, they will hand you back what ever you paid at that time. If auctioneer says or you see a yellow light listen closely he will explain why it is on , it can be for many different reasons ,all yellow lights are sold as is [ which means you buy it you own it, all vehicles over 10 years old are sold under yellow , there my be nothing wrong with vehicle but law requires it to be sold under yellow]. vehicles sold exempt or over 100000 miles are sold under yellow, [ if you did not check this vehicle out completely I suggest you walk away and don't bid] don't be the first to bid, auctioneers normally fish to begin with[ act like someone has bid , or start out saying a high number] , look to see who the auctioneer is looking at and see if they really bid [ look close sometimes bidders my just blink eye ,wiggle a finger or just node there head, that is the way they bid], once you know they are bidding you can join in or wait until the end, the auctioneer will let you know when he or she is about close bid ,there is also floor people walking around trying to take your bid and they yell it to the auctioneer. I always watch the auctioneer , watch his or her eyes follow them to see who is bidding against me , make sure they are. I have watched people bid against themselves because they where not paying attention. If you get lost during the biding[are not sure where or what is going on], don't be scared to ask auctioneer. good luck and let me know how much you saved. GOOD IDEAL TO WATCH SOME BIDING BEFORE YOUR VEHICLE COMES TO THE BLOCK YOU WILL BE READY TO SAVE THOUSANDS
Vehicle Warranty Part 2 { read , remember and save -- it's that easy }
One of the first things I did after becoming an Independent Automobile Dealer was research warranty companies to see if it would be a good investment to offer warranties on the vehicles I sold. It was one of the smartest moves I had made at that point. The warranty not only made sales increase it made the customer happy, [even though the customer paid for the warranty] ,keep in mind automobile dealers get paid commission on warranty sales . Warranty company's have many different types of warranties it depends on, year of auto, mileage and in some cases , make and model. Prices vary depending on the warranty you select. Some of the warranties cover the power train [ which is basically all internally lubricated parts ]. Some of the warranties are just about as good as a new car manufactures warranty, covering power train and electrical . Some manufactor lubricants they expect you to use for them to honar the warranty. If you have a mechanical proplem they have a list of auto repair shops to take care of the problem. Be sure you follow there conditions and you should have no problem with getting your repairs taken, also make sure you undestand what is and what is not covered , [ do your homework ]
Vehicle Warranty Part 3 { New car dealer or Independent automobile dealer }
Here's some more things you need to know .
New and Used car dealers can sale you the same warranty. { if the manufacture warranty is over]
If your driving a vehicle that's mileage is between 3600o to 60000 thousand miles on odometer and your manufacture warranty is about over you can purchase a good warranty that will cover certain items up to at least 100000 miles as long as you purchase it before the manufacture warranty has elaspes .
FOURTEEN REASONS " NOT " TO PURCHASE A ( BMW ) AUTOMOBILE ! part 1
On March 12th 1999, I purchased a brand new BMW 528IA loaded with all the extra's, for my wife's birthday. The total sale price was $ 52,121.42 after I added wheel dust covers and sunroof air deflector. Anyone and everyone that knows me would tell you how much time I spend taking care of everything I own, in other words I am very punctilious. My thoughts were paying that much for a vehicle I would get great performance for 150000 to 200000 thousand miles with little to no repairs, as long as I kept the BMW serviced. That was the only way I could see paying that much for an automobile; boy was I wrong. The following fourteen reasons will tell you why BMW is nothing but ( JUNK ), boy did I get ripped off. I am not listing all oil changes because I knew they would have to be made when my BMW automobile told me to and I did just as BMW called for; I do have all my oil change records . # 1 On June 18th 2001, mileage on my BMW was 29746 noted on BMW dealer repair order, replaced front brakes and rotors, cost to me $507.06; note: rear cup holder was replaced at n/c . # 2 On November 1st 2002, mileage on my BMW was 45048 noted on BMW dealer repair order, service engine, balance tires, replace wiper blades, replace a/c compressor drive belt, cost to me $353.45 . # 3 On August 7th 2004, mileage on my BMW was 63509 noted on BMW dealer repair order, performed an inspection II, brake liner repair kit, 2 disk brakes, sensor, replaced rear cup holder again only this time holder cost me $ 50.00; remember this because it comes up again, replaced brake fluid, replaced drive belts, replaced front and rear brakes, rotors, and sensors; cost to me $1960.02 . # 4 On March 2nd 2005, mileage on my BMW was 68112 noted on BMW repair order, replaced power steering hose, return pipe, suction pipe, checked battery, battery tested good; note charged me $ 42.50 just to test battery, cost to me $345.95. # 5 On December 17th 2005, mileage on my BMW was 74720 noted on local auto repair center Johnson's repair order, replaced rear constant vel carrier, replaced left front fog lamp, cost to me $422.34. # 6 On June 19th 2006, mileage on my BMW was 76600 noted on local auto repair center Johnson's repair order, replaced battery, cost to me $106.95. # 7 On August 3rd 2006, mileage on my BMW was 77876 noted on BMW dealer repair order, replaced ASC module and coded, cost to me $1058.09.
FOURTEEN REASONS " NOT " TO PURCHASE A ( BMW ) AUTOMOBILE ! part 2
Continued from part 1. #8 On August 11th 2007, mileage on my BMW was 85223 noted on local auto repair center Johnson's repair order, replaced front struts, upper mounts, radius arm bushings, alignment, replaced wiper blades, cost to me $1179.03. # 9 On August 20th 2007, mileage on my BMW was 85300 noted on local auto repair center Johnson's repair order, replaced left inner tie rod, alignment, cost to me $ 115.30. # 10 On August 23rd 2007, mileage on my BMW was 85408 noted on BMW dealer repair order, replaced front sway bar, cost to me $442.10. # 11 On March 21st 2008, mileage on my BMW was 89178 noted on BMW dealer repair order, replaced spark plugs, replaced valve cover gaskets, buffed headlight covers, flushed brake fluid , flushed coolant, performed injector flush, cost to me, $1274.58. #12 On April 17th 2008, mileage on my BMW was 89659 noted on BMW dealer repair order, replaced pressure regulator, vent hose, vent pipe, vacuum hose, connecting line, return pipe, connecting line, cost to me $ 584.15.
FOURTEEN REASONS " NOT " TO PURCHASE A ( BMW ) AUTOMOBILE ! part 3
Continued from part 2 . # 13 On September 4th 2008, mileage on my BMW was 91810 per me. A/C compressor went out on my BMW. I called BMW dealer to get approximate cost for repair and was told anywhere from $1500.00 to $2000.00 dollars. Enough, I was not believing an automobile I paid so much for " COULD BE NOTHING BUT A LEMON". Even though my warranty was over long ago I called the North American BMW customer service department around 1:30 p.m. eastern standard time and spoke with a representative named DEE. I went over everything with DEE and told her I thought BMW was suppose to be a very high grade auto builder and I would never have purchased it if I had known a BMW couldn't make it to 100000 miles without spending over $ 10,000.00 dollars in repairs. I told her since this was a lemon, BMW should help with repairs. DEE said with the age of the car and the mileage there was nothing they could do. So I said, then are you telling me a BMW will not last 100000 miles because my BMW has a little over 91000 miles and I started paying for repairs when my BMW had 29746 miles on it ? I told DEE I drive a 1995 DODGE RAM 4x4, 5.9 liter short bed Pickup I purchased new and I gave less than $25,000.00 for it. It has 134000 miles on it, serviced regularly just like the BMW. I told DEE I have spent less than $1000.00 on repairs on my DODGE RAM PICKUP. I told her I could have purchased (2) DODGE RAM Pickups and had over $12000.00 in my pocket, ( NOT COUNTING FINANCE CHARGES ) for what I gave for the 1999, 528IA BMW. All readers need to remember that before you buy a BMW, you will save a lot by purchasing an American made auto over a BMW. I told DEE about my web site and that I just wanted to get BMW'S response before I wrote this so I would get everything right for this article. On Friday September 5th 2008, after I spoke with DEE at BMW, my wife let all the windows down after leaving work. When she got home, pulled into our garage ( by the way the garage has heat and A/C to help protect our automobiles ) THE LEFT REAR WINDOW WOULD NOT GO UP. We do not have children and I would bet that window has not been used twenty times since the car was new. # 14 Today, September 8th 2008, mileage on my BMW is 91814 miles, MARK'S AUTO GLASS; REPAIR ORDER, REPLACED REGULATOR; MY COST, $445.55 . Oh yeah, the cup holder in the rear is not working again.
FOURTEEN REASONS " NOT " TO PURCHASE A ( BMW ) AUTOMOBILE ! part 4
Continued from part 3. I purchased my BMW at BMW of Chattanooga where I was and still am treated fairly and with utmost respect. I've been there so often, Desmond Hagan, Service Advisor, knows me on a first name basis. My post is not to bash BMW of Chattanooga, but rather to bash the manufacturer, BMW. After reading all four parts of my post, " DO YOU STILL WANT TO PURCHASE A BMW?"
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